As I stepped into Colonel Saab in Trafalgar Square, the warmth of the atmosphere was the first thing that hit me. By Kiesha Meikle
That, and the smell of the food of course.
But it wasn’t just the friendly staff, the aroma of spices or the chatter of the diners that felt so welcoming – the restaurant has a heady mix of eclectic South Indian art alongside grand chandeliers, which strike a delicate balance between opulence and lived-in charm. It’s a tribute to both the grandeur of India and the relaxed, bustling vibe of the country – which in so many ways mirrors the vibe of central London too. All this and more, makes Colonel Saab a very appealing destination after a long day at work or a day of sightseeing. They seem to have got their offering just right, as the restaurant was pretty busy when we arrived midweek at 7.30pm sharp…
The Accessibility:
We were seated downstairs – which although great for people watching and mingling with other diners, meant that we missed out on the grand view of the dining area that the upper floor offers. From upstairs, diners are treated to a spectacular sight of the signature giant chandelier, a true centrepiece that embodies the restaurant’s aesthetic—ornate but welcoming. It’s an experience I’d recommend, if only for the visual treat. The problem is, there is no lift – even though there is ample space for wheelchair users downstairs, those who struggle with mobility may not get the opportunity to experience the upstairs area…which is a shame.
Colonel Saab, with its collection of artifacts and artwork, feels like dining in a museum where each piece has a story. This curated collection, amassed during the Choudhary family’s travels, creates a backdrop for some very good food too.
The Food:
Now, onto the food—what a delight! We opted for the 8-course tasting menu, a culinary journey curated by Chef Sohan Bhandari. This menu is an ode to Indian homemakers and traditional Indian cooked food, reflecting his culinary heritage and signature dishes. Oh, but this menu is not cheap! At £80 per head, it’s a treat for a special occasion or for a foody who is happy to expense their passion for good eats.
‘Despite not having the grand view, our downstairs seating did not detract too much from the experience.’
We started with Rasam, a South Indian tomato and lentil soup served with mini idli and puffed pastry bites. Although delicious, it was only a prelude to a true delight: Marwads Raj Kachori. This dish, featuring spiced chickpeas and potato, trio sauce, pomegranate seeds, boondi, savory crisps, herbal jam, and black lime chaat masala, was simply amazing. For those who love flavour, this dish will have your mouth watering. Don’t get me wrong, for those who are not used to these unusual flavour combinations, it’s something you may need to get your tastebuds around. For me, it was a delicious journey of texture and flavour that left me looking around to steal more from the plate of my fellow diner.
A refreshing Alphonso mango sorbet followed as a palate cleanser—a nice touch and much needed. Why? Because I was about to have the best fish curry of my life.
There is always one dish that sets the scene and the star of the show was the Nadan Fish Curry, accompanied by beans poriyal, dal makhani, steamed rice, and Malabar paratha. The flavours were perfectly balanced, and we were surprised that we loved it even more than the Sunday Lamb Curry (with cumin potatoes, dal makhani, steamed rice, and butter naan). While good, the Lamb Curry didn’t quite reach the heights of the fish curry. It’s hard to describe what it was about the fish curry that made it so divinely flavourful and moreish – but when I asked for one to-go, there was none left. I clearly wasn’t the only one who loved that particular dish!
For dessert, we enjoyed a Mishti Doi Cheesecake—yoghurt cake with lime and jaggery syrup—and a Raspberry Pistachio and Coconut Tart. They were delightful and provided a sweet end to a fantastic meal.
As we concluded our meal, it became clear that Colonel Saab offers more than just good food; it provides an experience. From the thoughtful decor to the impeccable service and outstanding dishes, it’s a love letter to India nestled in the heart of London. Sure, the 8-course tasting menu is not cheap at £80, BUT there is so much more on the menu to choose from. If you do opt for the tasting menu, you can eat your fill and take the rest home for the family (the portions are big).
Colonel Saab in Trafalgar Square is a great choice for a dinner with friends, colleagues or family as it checks so many boxes. Whether you’re there for a casual dinner or a grand celebration, it promises an experience that’s as rich and varied as the country it pays homage to. The food is delicious, the service top-notch, and the atmosphere not too grand whilst being very inviting.
If you can, don’t miss the chance to sit upstairs and fully appreciate the stunning chandelier—it’s the cherry on top of an already pretty great dining experience.
Trafalgar Square
42 William IV St,
London WC2N 4DD
reservations@colonelsaab.co.uk | 020 8016 6800
